A Re-Blog Of My First Ever Post On Tumblr:

I took the photo in Tofino in August 2009.

magicallyadept:

Unclip, unwrap, unzip. Twist and contort. My body unshapes itself from the protective coccoon. The squawk of rubber on wet skin upsets my ears. Steam errupts from my chest as the cool air welcomes my body. I pull the wetsuit down to my waist and take off my boots. I throw them onto my upturned longboard next to the gloves and hood. A deep breath and a slight sigh. Sorrow immediately feels me. The day is done. My effort finalized. Every set is now just a memory. I light a cigarette and sit down looking out at the waves that I had just bested. A wry smile curses my lips.

I feel like I have won.

I think ahead. There is plenty to do. The night beckons. My stomach alerts me to its thoughts. I make a quick plan and commit it to memory. Then I look back out and I reflect on my life, my loves, my when and wheres and what could have beens. Nostalgia always bests me. An untamed circuit breaker that will always makes me smile. I feel great. The Sun makes its final approach towards the horizon and magic hour is beaten by nightfall once again. Vancouver Island feels like a friend and Tofino its warm embrace. I smile again.

I have won.

Through the fog we cut for paradise is beyond these clouds.

Once more we plan our escape.

So. I finally updated my blog on tumblr the other day. I really enjoy writing but I never really post any of the stuff I write on a blog or even on Twitter.

I was inspired by another beautiful Canadian chick I started to follow on Twitter - @smashmisha. Her blog entitled smashulous on tumblr is fantastic. It just made me want to share more things with people so they can hopefully enjoy something I have created. So I created and it made me happy :)

Anyway, my first post was based around a photo looking out to the Pacific Ocean from Cox Bay, Tofino, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada.

I wrote a quick description of my last moments surfing out there and it really brought back some memories. I only picked that photo as it was the first one that appeared in my list of pictures to upload but it seems so perfect now. Over here in London we have had an incredible last few days. The weather has been awesome. 28+ for 4 days in a row, Sun blazing down and clear blue skies - and it is still only May!

This Summer feeling that has washed over the country has made me feel sad. I live for the Summer and don’t get me wrong, I am glad we are getting there but when it does come, I feel trapped in London. Sitting in an office, working financial instruments and accompanied by the serpents they keep.

How did I get here? Really? This is me now? Why? Where did it all go wrong?
These are some of the questions I am constantly asking myself and they take the edge off my smile.

Can I still win?

Now, I cannot wait for the Football World Cup in South Africa, it is my favourite sporting event and being at home with my friends will make it even more enjoyable; so for now I am quite content with location. But as soon as it is all over and all the montages have run, I will be depressed. Proper.

I want to escape to the beach. Sun, Sand, Sea & Surf. 4 of my favourite things.

That is me just about to go back out.

Right, tangents cut, time to get back to the link. My first post was reblogged by WeLoveSurfing so I looked at their archive and it made me smile wide :D

Gorgeous surfing inspired photos make me eyes dance. Colours! The waves and their salty breath smile back like old friends. You want to know my dreams, they are those photos. You want to make me happy? Frame me in those views! A mixture of happiness and sadness envelope me.

I don’t know how to feel. All I know is I just want to be in one of those photos.

That’s where I know how to win.

Unclip, unwrap, unzip. Twist and contort. My body unshapes itself from the protective coccoon. The squawk of rubber on wet skin upsets my ears. Steam errupts from my chest as the cool air welcomes my body. I pull the wetsuit down to my waist and take off my boots. I throw them onto my upturned longboard next to the gloves and hood. A deep breath and a slight sigh. Sorrow immediately feels me. The day is done. My effort finalized. Every set is now just a memory. I light a cigarette and sit down looking out at the waves that I had just bested. A wry smile curses my lips.

I feel like I have won.

I think ahead. There is plenty to do. The night beckons. My stomach alerts me to its thoughts. I make a quick plan and commit it to memory. Then I look back out and I reflect on my life, my loves, my when and wheres and what could have beens. Nostalgia always bests me. An untamed circuit breaker that will always makes me smile. I feel great. The Sun makes its final approach towards the horizon and magic hour is beaten by nightfall once again. Vancouver Island feels like a friend and Tofino its warm embrace. I smile again.

I have won.